Etiquette and stewardship at MCS
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General MCS site ethical recommendations (summary)
Climbers, parking, and vehicles:
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Parking space is limited, so plan to carpool. Park your vehicle so as to allow enough space for other vehicles to also use the turn-around loop.
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Avoid car camping at the parking site; use local campgrounds, or camp along the main gravel roads. There is minimal space for 7-9 vehicles at the turn-around loop.
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Avoid making campfires (and use extreme caution if smoking) during the dry season (July-Sept). It's a high fire risk with no nearby emergency water to put it out. It's a hot dry crag during peak summer season.
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Consider limiting your total group team size to 1-20 persons maximum.
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Instructional guiding in this Forest Service district is permit regulated. This site has limited space and routes suitable for large fee-based commerical entities.
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Large groups (fee-based clubs, guide services): Consider alternate ideas (if site is crowded) such as climbing on weekdays by skipping weekends when the crag is usually busy.
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Cliff scarp technical points:
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Descend from the cliff top by using designated methods: use the 4th class water-streak descent at the South End, or at the North End of the cliff; or descend using a few of the established 100' rappel routes (and beware of climber's below you).
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Preferably, only ground-up lead the popular and steep (200'-215') headwall rock climbs (about 9 routes). Avoid rappelling down those routes.
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Several minor sections at the top of the cliff (near the trees) have some loose debris. Avoid dragging a rope or walking across those sections.
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Extraneous points:
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Your toilet needs. Walk away from the crag into the deep forest and find a private “pooh” spot away from the base of the crag.
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Consider leaving your pet at home. If you bring it here keep it fully controlled (e.g. leashed, and use a pooh-bag). There are about four popular main base landing areas where folks tend to congregate and that total square foot space is limited. Pet's do not need to be in everyone's lunch.
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Do not leave non-degradable trash at the crag or parking spot.
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Leave your drill at home. All the preparation work is done. Do not add midway belay stations to any of the full pitch lead climbs. These routes are enjoyed in the fullest flavor by embarking on a full rope lead.
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Leave all bolt/hanger replacement factors to the core Advisory Committee team, and just enjoy climbing the routes. Each original core developer prefers to maintain his/her own routes through CCA.
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If you have questions contact the core team at CCA. A wise ethically based stewardship goal enhances the value and inherent qualities of a crag. An evaluated ethical continuity summary designed and recommended for the rock climbing needs of this site.
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Enjoy the serene experience and enjoy climbing at MC slab.